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If you like fire, or artistry in general, this is the tutorial for you! In this post, I will be teaching you two different “torching” techniques.
First, I will be demonstrating step by step how to “Torch Finish” a carbon steel putter (be sure and read the differences between carbon and stainless steel here). Although this technique can be done with several different models of putters, I enjoy doing it on the T.P. Mills line of putters because they seem to work best with this finish.
Second, I will be teaching you how to “Oven Torch” a Stainless Steel putter. This is going to be very similar to the first technique with the following two exceptions:
- We won’t be dipping it in oil. We will be letting it cool naturally
- We will be putting the putter in the oven BEFORE using the handheld torch to ensure a more even finish.
Tutorial #1: “Oil Quenched Torching”
Before Starting This Tutorial, Your Putter Must
Materials Needed
- Propane gas torch and torch head
- Acetone and Paper Towels
- Oil Mixture (mix thoroughly)
- 2/3 by volume 2-stroke/cycle motor oil (blue dye)
- 1/3 by volume Liquid Wrench Oil
(Wd-40 works, find something that can be poured rather than in an aerosol can)
- 2/3 by volume 2-stroke/cycle motor oil (blue dye)
- Bench Vise
(Or something to secure the putter with)
- Rubber Vise Clamp (if using the shaft to secure the putter)
Have lots of patience with this. Torch finishing a putter requires practice, and you most likely won’t get it the first time around. If you mess up, it is fairly painless to restart. You can either go back and repeat Part 2, or you can soak the putter head in Coca Cola/CLR
Carbon Steel Temperature/Color Chart
| 800 F | Dark Grey | 427 C |
| 575 F | Blue | 302 C |
| 540 F | Dark Purple | 282 C |
| 520 F | Purple | 271 C |
| 500 F | Brown/Purple | 260 C |
| 480 F | Brown | 249 C |
| 465 F | Dark Straw | 241 C |
| 445 F | Light Straw | 229 C |
| 390 F | Faint Straw | 199 C |
Tutorial #2: “Oven Torching”
Before You Start, Your Putter Must:
- Be removed from it’s shaft
- Have all nicks and dings removed
- Beadblasted with 80 Grit Glass Beads
- Be cleaned with dish soap and water
- Rinsed with Acetone
Materials Needed
- Stainless Steel Hanging Wire
- Oven
- Dish Soap
- Acetone
- Propane Torch and Torch Head
The first step when torching a Stainless Steel putter is to heat it in the oven at 500 degrees for 1.5 hours. I use stainless steel picture hanging wire to hang it by the oven rack. This allows the putter to be heated evenly. I use a screwdriver to push the wire into the putter head (see picture below).
Before doing anything further, wash the putter thoroughly with dish soap and water, and then do a final rinse with acetone. Now, use another piece of stainless steel hanging wire and attach it to an oven rack (be sure not to touch it-you don’t want the oils from your hand on the metal). Then, twist the two pieces together to freely hang the putter in the oven. Once the putter is secure, begin heating.
After heating the putter for 1.5 hours, it is time to use the propane torch to heat the putter further. This process is exactly the same as shown in the video above in this tutorial.
Since the putter is already attached to the stainless steel hanging wire, I will either hold it from the wire, or hang it in an appropriate area to torch. The torching process should only take 5-10 minutes. Be sure to evenly heat the putter. Stop when you see it turning the light brown/wheat color.
As stated previously, you will NOT dip the putter in the oil mixture. Let it cool off in open air. Let it hang so that nothing is touching it for about an hour. Once you’ve waited this long, you can run cold water over it.
After it has cooled off, give it a nice paint-fill and you’re good to go!
Can you combine the 2 processes for Carbon Steel? Use the Oven to get a nice even heat at the temp you want and then quench in oil after?
Yes, I have done that a couple of times! It requires at least an hour in the oven but I have experienced a much more even finish doing it that way.
Is it absolutely necessary to sandblast? Just gives it a cleaner/sharper look I’d imagine.
Can you oil quench a stainless steel putter for a dark finish?
Part of the reason for oil quenching is rust prevention, and there is no need to do this with a stainless steel metal. Also, stainless steel changes color at a much higher temperature, so you would need to heat the putter to a very high heat to get it a dark purple. I suppose it is possible, but I have never had a strong enough torch to get it there. I would leave the oil part out though!
CJ – Yes, this is entirely aesthetic. After oil quenching, there will probably be spotty areas that don’t look amazing, and a light beadblast makes that look a lot more professional.
Is the color chart relatively the same for stainless steel? Maybe add 50 degrees or so for stainless?
I’m not an expert in metals and I have always had a hard time finding consistent answers to this question, but yes, SS takes a higher temperature than carbon steel to change colors. Personally, I have never attempted to turn a stainless steel putter blue/purple as it requires a pretty significant amount of time and heat. The wheat color is definitely achievable though and looks great!
after you quench a putter in oil and let it cool off – any tricks to wiping it clean without removing the finish? also – do you need to seal it with caswell like you would with a black oxide type of finish? great content!
Air drying has always been my go-to. The oil itself generally acts as a sealant, so no need for additional product here.
Have you had any issues with discoloration after torching?
I recently torched the same scotty that you have in the pictures and it turned out great. I got the paint fill done, but after a week or two I noticed some discoloration start to appear and over time it has gotten significantly worse.
Have you dealt with this issue?
Does the putter now need to be oiled after sanding, polishing and torching to prevent the discoloration or is it something else?
There is always a slight risk of oxidation after extended use, which is an unfortunate part of putter refinishing. There are only two ways that I know to prevent discoloration and keep a professional looking finish indefinitely.
1. Use a polymer refinish . If you want to preserve the original finish, I would go with a “clear satin” finish.
2. Add a protective plating on the putter – I don’t have any tutorials on the site for this and don’t recommend it if you’re not looking to spend a lot of money. But this is the most reliable way to protect the surface of a putter. Essentially, you would use a plating solution found at a site like Caswell.
I really hope to redo some of these tutorials and offer a more comprehensive solution, but currently don’t have a space to experiment around!
Thank you for the response! I live in Hawaii so unfortunately pretty much EVERYTHING rusts. I even oil quenched it, hoping it would prevent any discoloration… I will give the Moly Resin a shot now, I think white or black would look pretty good.
Really appreciate you sharing your experiences and ideas, this has been a great hobby to pick up this year!
Yeah, 2020 was definitely the year for home renovations and putter refinishing! I have been thrilled to see everyone diving in and trying out this fun hobby!
Hi, I recently came across a Spalding TPM 14 do you know whether this is SS or carbon Steel to apply this oil quench refinish? Cheers
Most TPM putters will be carbon steel.
Hey zach,
awesome video! I tried it out and it came out great. I was just wondering, will acetone remove the oil finish when I go to remove the excess paint from my paint fill ?
If I remember correctly, you will want to wait about 24 hours before applying paint. After 24 hours, I have not noticed any effects.