This could possibly be my favorite tutorial on the entire site, because it looks so professional, and can be done right at home. There are endless possibilities as well. You could even refinish your Ping driver to look exactly like Bubba’s! The finish in this tutorial is durable (if you let it set before using it), and in my opinion looks loads better than the factory finishes.
Before you start, your club must be:
- Removed from it’s shaft
- If you are refinishing a club that uses an adaptor, all you have to do is unscrew the clubhead from the adaptor
- Dupli-color “Perfect Match” Automotive Spray Paint
- Clear Coat plus Hardener (expensive, but worth it! Once you put the hardener in the paint, you will only have 48 hours before it expires, so make the most of it. I recommend refinishing several clubs at once)
- Air Compressor
- Sandblasting Cabinet
- 180 Grit Aluminum Oxide Blasting Media
- Blue Painters Tape
- X-Acto Knife
- Spare shaft OR original shaft (taped up to avoid paint) to hold the club head up while spray painting
Optional Materials (if you choose to remove the existing finish with the deburring wheel rather than with the sandblaster)
- Protective Gloves and Eye-wear
- 6″ Bench Grinder/Buffer
with 1/2″ arbor holes (the cheapest and most readily available deburring and polishing wheels fit are 6″ in diameter with 1/2″ arbor holes)
- I linked to a Buffer on Amazon, which I don’t currently use, but looks like a good setup for what we are trying to accomplish here. I already owned a bench grinder when I got into this, so didn’t bother to buy the proper “buffing” grinder.
- 6″ x 1/2″ x 1/2″ fine deburring wheel
Helpful Tips and Reminders
- When cutting the blue painters tape, make sure your X-Acto Knife is sharp
- Apply the Duplicolor paints in order (Primer/Sealer, then your desired finish color, then clear coat)
- When letting the coats dry, don’t let the club heads touch ANYTHING
- Let the coats dry for an hour before applying next coat
- Be sure to shake the spray cans before application
- If you mess up, let the paint dry for an hour, then sandblast the area that you messed up on. If it is a huge mess-up, you might have to sandblast the entire head again 🙁
- It helps to redo the tape job after you have sandblasted the existing finish off so that your lines are perfectly straight for painting.
- Lighter coats are better than thick coats, and it is much better to do 3 light coats than 1 thick coat.
- Don’t use your clubs for at least a week if you want the best durability. The longer the paint sets, the more durable it will get. If you are impatient, give it at least 3 days.
- Measure the swing-weight of your club(s) after the paint application. There is a chance that the swing-weight has changed. If you don’t know what swing-weight is, click here.
- After the finish is set, do NOT use acetone on the club. This is the biggest downside of using automotive paint. The finish is durable, but acetone will rip the paint off just like it will any other paint. If you want to paint-fill your club, just make sure you stay within the lines, because you cannot clean it up. If you are wondering why I don’t just use a polymer finish on these clubs, it is because of the heating requirements. It would not be wise to heat a hybrid, wood, or driver up to 300 degrees for an hour!
And finally… the tutorial video:
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